12/06/2009

Meeting at City Hall




















I met Liz, an English teacher from Bucheon, in Hongdae about a month ago. She is on her third contract here in Korea. On Sunday I met her to get something to eat and go to the Seoul Museum of Art. We ate tween jang chigae at Jin Ju Hoi Gwan for lunch. And went to see the only exhibit opened at the Seoul Museum of Art, I think it was anti-sculpture? I forget. It was interesting though. The museum costs roughly 50 cents. Not as cheap as the Smithsonian's in DC, which are free, but still super cheap.
After, because Liz is also interested in photography and studied at the school of the Art Institute of Chicago, we went to Chungmuro. Chungmuro is a section of Seoul that is filled with photo supply stores and printers. Mainly commercial printing shops, but many photo shops, too. The last photo is Liz in front of my new photo place, both the price and quality are excellent!!!

Korean Hamburgers









. . .







I don't crave hamburgers often here in Korean, because there is too much other food that is just so much better. However, last week I ate a hamburger for lunch on Wednesday and Thursday while getting film processed in Wangsimni.
Lotteria and Kraze Burger are both Korean fast food chains, although their hamburgers are very different. At Lotteria I ate a Steak Hamburger, it was topped with cream of broccoli and on the bottom had sauteed onions, better than anything at McDonald's. But, it didn't compare to the Maximum Burger I ate at Kraze Burger the next day. One hamburger at Kraze costs more than an entire set (meal) at Lotteria, but it is so worth it.
If you can't find a Kraze burger you're better off eating gimbab than at Lotteria (even though their steak burger isn't bad).

12/04/2009

Hiking with Umbrellas




























In Seoul you don't let rain stop you from heading to the subway station to get to your favorite mountain. No, here when you want to hike and it's raining you take an umbrella, extra makgoli, and I like to take hard boiled eggs, too. Because eggs stay warm for hours if you boil them right before you leave.
Last Sunday I went hiking with my friend and coworker Ray, and my Korean brother You Jay Jin. We took the subway to Suraksan with thousands of other hikers, we walked past all of the tents set up to sell food and drink to the hikers, and went up the mountain. This hike was basically a massive set of stone steps that I thought would never end.
On the way up people awkwardly passed each other on the slippery wet steps with their umbrellas. I saw one hiker with no shoes!
When we were nearly to the top, we decided to stop because of the hazard of slipping on the wet leaves and rocks. We drank two bottles of makgoli under the shelter of our umbrellas, ate some kimchi, and headed back down.
Before we reached the bottom we stopped in the hillside gym (that most people were using for a shelter from the rain to eat in) and pumped a little iron.
It's hard to believe that it was the end of November and there were still bugs. I saw a giant bug strip on a tree that had many interesting specimens attached to it.
Walking back down Hyung, my Korean brother, saw some friends from high school. They kept going and we waited for them in a small trail-side makgoli tent.
After 30 minutes or so his friends showed back up, and we continued to drink makgoli, as prescribed by the traditional handbook of Korean hiking. When ate, went to another makgoli tent to eat and drink so more, and then took the subway home.
Life is good.

12/03/2009

Article About Afghanistan



I contributed an article and some photo's to my friend M.E. Sprengelmeyer's newspaper in New Mexico. I met him while covering the beginning of the current war in Afghanistan.

article:
By Thomas Michael Corcoran

SEOUL, South Korea -- As a former Marine and veteran of Operation Enduring Freedom, I am always interested in any evolutions in our, now, seemingly endless wars with Iraq and Afghanistan. Having served in Afghanistan, I am especially interested in the changing climate of the war there.
Today, I am surprised at the situation in Afghanistan. Eight years ago, when I entered Kandahar, the U.S. and allied troop ceiling was 4,000. If we needed a Marine or sailor to perform a specialty task, we had to move a Marine with a job of lesser priority back to the ship. It was a strictly enforced rule, 4,000 was our ceiling. That contrasts so much with our current tactics that I don't think anyone could have foreseen a troop level of over 50,000 in 2009. And now a projected 100,000 U.S. troops within another year.
That we are still in Afghanistan is a surprise to me. I think the people I served with, and maybe most Americans, expected the war to unfold more like the first Gulf War -- in and out. We get bin Laden, kill him or capture him, and we leave.
I was proud to be one of the first on the ground in Afghanistan. I was proud to have the chance to serve my country. I was proud to participate in retaliation for the attacks on the World Trade Center. However, some things bothered me early on in the war.
First, nearly all the Marines in my unit started becoming suspicious that our command was trying to give bin Laden a head start for the hills as we sat in the North Arabian Sea for nearly the entire month of November 2001. Of course they may have just been concerned with the possible high casualties of a hasty attack. But that is what Marines train for their entire career, amphibious assault.
Another occasion I remember saying aloud, "What are they thinking?!" is when they issued a contingent of Marines, including myself, the order to prepare for a forward deployment to Tora Bora. We were thrilled; really, to finally be doing what we had come to do, get bin Laden. But shortly after we were issued our cold weather gear we were told the mission had been cancelled. That is something I still can't understand!
Another very suspicious order came over the ship's loud speaker about a week after St. Valentine's Day 2002. It was the ship's captain telling us our deployment would be extended for a month while we awaited possible orders to enter Iraq. We looked at each other, dumfounded. I remember joking that those orders were coming about 10 years too late! Looking back, it is easy to determine exactly how those orders came about. It is also disturbing.
President George W. Bush made the conscious and unfounded decision to start a second war in Iraq that not only took the focus off of the more legitimate conflict in Afghanistan, but most likely cost the world tens of thousands more lives. Like USMC Maj. Gen. Smedley D. Butler wrote about the "racket" of war, "It is the only one in which the profits are reckoned in dollars and the losses in lives."
It is an extreme understatement to say that President Barack Obama is left with a horrible mess. I have no idea what I would do in this current world tragedy if I was the Commander in Chief. I can only hope that the most intelligent people living today will be able to solve this problem. The only useful advice I could give anyone on war (aside from keep your rifle clean, your head low, and know your fields of fire) would be to read a short book written by the extremely commonsensical Gen. Butler, War is a Racket.
Today, we are on the verge of having more U.S. troops deployed than anyone could have guessed. There are many recent veterans who, after their tours in either Iraq or Afghanistan, have become disillusioned. I am proud that many of them, like the now deceased Butler, have become vocal activists against war.

11/28/2009

Byahl Me Shik Dang














This is the Byahl Me Shik Dang in Jangandong, my neighborhood in Seoul. I've eaten here a few times with my friend Hyung Shik. The first time I didn't really care for sam bab, meat (in this case pork bellies) wrapped in various leaves, but like most Korean food, I now crave it occasionally. Aside from the meat, this meal would be a vegan's dream.
(Most Korean restaurants offer traditional floor seating. I find it's more comfortable to take your shoes off and sit on the floor.)

11/24/2009

Won Bang At Gan on Sunday
























Every Sunday I drink makgoli (rice wine) with my friends. Many times we end up at Won Bang At Gan, a tofu place in Achesan. The place makes dobu (tofu) and soondobu (soft tofu) fresh everyday. They keep kong (soy beans) in a refrigerator next to the Jang Su makgoli. My Korean brother Hyung (which means brother in Korean, but his real name is Yu Jay Gin) likes to hang out in places that haven't changed much since the 1970s. Which is awesome, it's like traveling through time, plus the prices haven't changed much. A thousand won is about 85 cents.

11/18/2009

Another Day and Night





This is day and night out my window at Hyundai Venture Ville in Dongdaemun, Seoul, South Korea. It's not a bad view. In the summer it's a little noisy if I leave the windows open. Perfectly directed though, the sun shines in, in the morning.
p.s. Obama just flew into Seoul